This is just a small taste of Nagano: the town with the most delicious savory pastries, eye-popping topiary and colourful parking garages—or at least that's what stood out for us. Plus a visit to the ancient Zenko-ji Temple, around which the town was built. And on our way there, in Karuizawa, a most unexpectedly delicious discovery: an oasis of a backyard pizzeria—Qui E La— originally "discovered" by Kalle Lasn of Monocle. We came just after lunch, so there was no pizza to be had. But our shy host Hayato was quick on his feet and whipped up another Neapolitan oven wonder, this dessert below.